Saturday, August 15, 2020

On ne vous raconte pas de salades*

We spend so much time thinking about, shopping for and preparing our food here that I thought I’d dedicate a blog to food.  Anyone that knows me well knows that I eat a ridiculous amount of vegetables, so trying to keep our little refrigerator full of veggies is almost a full time job. Luckily we have two market days per week in Lausanne, and the Lausanne market is AMAZING!   The marché starts at Place St. François, and the vendors are lined up and down the steep, narrow, cobblestone pedestrian only streets all the way up to Place Rippone. 









While Wednesday’s market is serious business, the Saturday market is like a fête!**  Even more vendors and people, musicians on the street corners, tourists stopping at the Place Palud to see the animated clock tell the history of Canton Vaud.  We stopped for coffee in the square today, and saw a little boy running past us toward the clock - ah, yes, it must be the top of the hour!



The Palud clock is on the building behind Doug


Giant Swiss flag covering the Place Palud




The apples are starting to arrive in the market, and we were surprised to see Gravensteins.  We have 7 Gravenstein apple trees at our house in Sebastopol so we're extra fond of that variety.  It turns out that Gravensteins have been around since the 17th century, most likely coming from Germany or Italy.  Our Sebastopol apple crop was early and light this year, so after picking three bushels of our apples, our son Scott and his friend Cody found a local farmer who sold them 200 pounds of drops for $60. They're making hard cider which is now bubbling away in Cody's garage in San Francisco. 


 

Some of our bounty!


When we ride out of town on our bike rides, we see so many well tended and fertilized fields around Canton Vaud (with lots of cows around for that ‘a la nature’ fertilizer).  We regularly pass by a farm that has a self-service stand, and this week we stopped to see one with beautifully arranged fruits and veggies. We were excited to see that same vender, “la famille Hess,” at the Wed/Sat marché at La Place Palud!  So we stopped by at today’s market and had a nice chat with them, after buying some of their veggies, of course.




Another food local food novelty we’ve found (again at a self-service stand) is pataclettes (https://www.pataclette.ch/), a cross between potato skins and raclette, advertised as the first fondue or raclette you can eat with 2 fingers.  For those of you who might not know,  raclette is  is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese but is also a Swiss dish (also popular in the French Alpes) that involves a machine with individual paddles that are put under a heating element to melt the slices of cheese.  You scrape off the cheese over new potatoes, pickled onions or cornichons.  As soon as the weather turns cold, the Swiss start craving this delicious dish, and so will we!



  • * On ne vous raconte pas de salades = We’re not making this up
  • **Fête = party

Monday, August 3, 2020

Mixing it up

We’ve been taking advantage of the nice weather to get out on our bikes, but have also been mixing it up with some beautiful local hikes and swimming.

 

We went on a few more overnight bike rides, riding in the early morning from our apartment to hop on the train with our bikes and backpacks.  One trip was with friends to Sursee, west of Lucerne, riding both around the hills and the Zugersee lake. 


Another trip from our apartment was around Lake Geneva - it looked like it's an easy, flat day ride, but after 112 miles in the heat, we were pretty tired chugging back up the hill to  Mont-Repos!


View of Lausanne from across the lake in Evian

 

Lac Léman in Geneva


We took another trip to Petite Cortaillod in the Neuchatel area, this time just the two of us. There we had two rides - one straight up out of town in 90+ degree heat (involving some bike carrying on an overgrown path obviously meant for mountain bikes or wild animals), and another to Bienne around the Lake Bielersee. 


Bielersee Lake
Riding through the vineyards along the Bielersee
Bielersee Lake
Petite Cortaillod pier
August 1 - National Swiss Day

You have to make a bike reservation on some of the regional trains, and we were so proud of ourselves for making the reservation on our phone and finding the bike spot on the way out.  On the way back we ended up on the wrong car, and had to make a dash for it back to the correct car, me flying along the station in my flip-flops, barely making it back on the train. 

 

Giving our necks and biking muscles a break, we’ve gone on some gorgeous hikes as well.  One of our favorites is to take the #9 bus from our apartment to the end of the line at Lutry/Corniche, get off, and start the nearby trail through the Lavaux vineyards.  When you hike you have more time to stop and take photos and appreciate the stunning views.  Our first hike happened to coincide with a vineyard spraying day, so we put on our Covid masks and zig-zagged along avoiding the low flying helicopters and the masked men on the ground with spraying canisters.  The rest of the hike was spectacular and we walked to the train station in Riez and waited on the beach by the lake for our train to take us back home.


Views from Lavaux
 
Lac Léman



Meeting Marie-Anne along the trail at Alan Chollet's wine stand
  
 Grandvaux

Another fun hike in Lausanne is to follow “les pas des renards” on the Le Chemin de la Vauchère trail, which starts high above Lausanne and follows a stream all the way down to Lac Léman.  You can download the trail, and also follow the signs and fox footprints on the sidewalks that mark the trail along the way






I made a list of 20 things to do in 2020, and I was humming along the beginning of the year, ahead of schedule with my list until COVID-19 came along and half of the things on my list became impossible due to the shutdowns in the SF Bay area.  But anticipating our stay in Switzerland, one thing on my list was to swim in Lac Léman (Lake Geneva).  So on one of our 90 degrees days I decided I had to give it a try – we walked down to the lake, and success… just a little cold at first but wonderful!  After that, I added swimming in Lake Neuchatel and Lake Bielersee to my list!




20 things to do in 2020 - one more check